CARE OF CHRISTMAS PLANTS

POINSETTIA

Poinsettias are native to Mexico, and are in the Euphorbia family.  Poinsettia flowers are actually made up of the bracts, which look like petals.  Poinsettias are not toxic to animal or human health. When trimmed or cut the sticky white sap can cause a skin rash and your pets or children will have unpleasant stomach problems if this sap gets into their mouth or is digested, but they would need to digest quite a few leaves. Colours range from creamy white to pink to the traditional bright red. Some have bracts with patterns in red and white, pink and white, or green and white and even bright orange.  There are also rose varieties.  Poinsettias such as blue or purple are cream-colored varieties that are sprayed with floral paint and are sometimes sprinkled with glitter.  Poinsettia flowers can also be used as a cut flower.  With proper care, your holiday poinsettia can remain attractive for weeks after you receive or buy this beautiful Christmas plant.  Care begins with proper light, water, and temperature conditions. 

LIGHT:  Poinsettias do best in a south, east or west window where the plant will receive bright daylight. Indoor temperatures of 65-70 degrees F is ideal.  Avoid an area where the temperature fluctuates or may be drying, such as near cold drafts, heat ducts, fireplaces, fans, space heaters, etc.  Poinsettias will suffer damage if they are exposed to temperatures below 50 degrees F, therefore they should be wrapped while transporting in the car, and should not be left in a cold car if you continue to shop on your way home.  It is best to drive home immediately after purchasing one.

WATERING:  Remove decorative foil or pot cover before watering. Water plant when the soil surface feels dry and pot feels lightweight when lifted.  Make sure it is in a pot that drains freely.  It is best to set the plant in a sink and water thoroughly, allowing the plant to drain completely.  Never allow poinsettia pots to sit in excess.  Constant wetness will rot plant roots.  Never allow poinsettias to get so dry that they wilt.

FERTILIZER:  It is not required to fertilize your poinsettia during the holidays. 

Environmental factors such as warm, dry conditions are most often the reason for leaf drop..

While you can keep growing your poinsettia after the holidays and get it to rebloom for the following year, it is not an easy task.  It requires excluding light from the plant for a period of time while keeping the plant healthy. The reduction in light prevents the plant from producing chlorophyll, the pigment that makes plant parts green. This changes the bracts to red, pink or white, depending on the poinsettia variety.  For many it is a holiday plant and they will discard the plant. 

FRESH CUT POINSETTIA ARRANGEMENTS

Poinsettias last a very long time as a fresh cut flower and look fantastic!  If your plant is looking sad, why not extend the life of the blooms in an arrangement? There is one step you need to do before you make your arrangement.  Remove the lower leaves and quickly burn the end of each stem. Burning helps seal off the sticky sap from leaking into the water. Add some fresh pine or cedar branches to your arrangement and you’re good to go!

AMARYLLIS

Amaryllis (Hippeastrum) is a Christmas favorite. This flowering bulb can bloom just in time for the holidays, plus continue to live for decades. with repeat blooming every year.  Hippeastrum is naturally found in South America.  Keep your pets and children away as they are toxic.  When purchasing amaryllis bulbs, you can choose an early-blooming South African amaryllis to bloom during the holidays, or a later-blooming Dutch amaryllis to take away the “winter blahs” of January.  Amaryllis bulbs are sold as dormant bulbs, or pre-potted in soil and ready to place on the plant stand. You might even find waxed bulbs.

.

Waxed amaryllis bulbs are an innovation from Holland.  The special wax coating makes them incredibly easy to grow since they require no water and no soil. All the nutrients they need to begin blooming are packed into that big round bulb, making them ready to produce flowers in as little as three to six weeks after bringing them home. The wax itself is a decorative element, and incorporates a hidden metal stand to keep the plant upright during blooming. The wax prevents the bulb from growing new roots, so the amaryllis won’t live after it is done flowering and is discarded. Flowers from waxed amaryllis bulbs tend to be shorter and stockier than unaltered bulbs and won’t last as long as a bulb that grows in soil.

PLANTING YOUR BULB

It is best if the base and roots of the bulb are placed in lukewarm water for a few hours. (Do not do this with waxed bulbs)  Remember, if you cannot plant the bulbs immediately after receiving them, store them at a cool temperature between 40-50 degrees F.  Purchase a good potting mix.  Plant the bulb half way into the soil, being careful not to damage the roots. Do not plant any deeper. Don't use a pot that's too big as amaryllis do best when pot bound.  Press the soil down firmly to set the bulb securely in place after planting.  Place the potted bulb in a warm place with direct light as the heat will encourage  the development of the stems. The ideal temperature is 68 to 70 degrees F.  Water lightly until the stem appears.  When the bud or buds and leaves appear, increase your watering. At this point, the stem will grow rapidly and flowers will develop when it has reached its height.  Bulbs will flower in 7-10 weeks as a general rule.  Follow the instructions with any bulb you buy as some will bloom sooner than others.

AFTER BLOOM TIME

After-Flowering:  When the amaryllis has stopped flowering, cut the old flowers from the top of the stem. Most will cut the whole stem off.  When the stem starts to sag, cut it back to the top of the bulb.

Leaf Growth and Development:  Continue to grow it on like a regular houseplant for at least 5-6 months.  When the leaves begin to yellow, which may not occur until early fall, cut the leaves back to about 2 inches from the top of the bulb and remove the bulb from the soil.

Bulb Storage:  Clean the bulb and place it in a cool (40-50 deg. F), dark place.  Even the crisper of your refrigerator will work. Store for a minimum of 6 weeks. Caution: Do not store amaryllis bulbs in a refrigerator that contains apples, this will sterilize the bulbs. Store the bulbs for a minimum of 6 weeks.

Plant Again:  Plant bulbs 8 weeks before you would like them to bloom.

CYCLAMEN

Cyclamen, which is their latin and common name, is a genus of Primulaceae that are native to the Mediterranean and other parts of Europe.  Understanding the growing cycle of a cyclamen gives you the knowledge of how they grow. They bloom in the winter, and thrive during the cooler months of the year. The biggest mistake people make with cyclamen care is trying to force them to grow year round and not realize they need a period of rest if they want to keep them growing.  Many will discard the plant after it begins its rest period.  The tubers are toxic to pets and children, so it is best to keep them away.  

LIGHT:  Cyclamen will do great in a bright room with indirect sunlight, or in an east or west facing window. They like it cool and thrive in temperatures that drop as low as 40°F at night and rise into the 60s during the day. This makes them a good option for those chillier window sills that your tropical plants might not appreciate.

WATERING:  Watering is a critical part of their care.  Like African violets, they won’t want their leaves and stems wet therefore it’s best to water them from the bottom, rather than over the top, where you set the plant on a water-filled tray and let the soil soak up the moisture through the drainage holes. They like to stay evenly moist during their active growth period, but allow it to dry slightly between waterings, but never completely bone-dry as flowers will quickly wilt and won’t last as long.  Consistent overwatering will kill them.  Do not let them sit in the water. 

FERTILIZING:  Fertilize your cyclamen using a weak half dose of liquid plant food every 2-4 weeks while it’s actively growing and blooming. Don’t overdo it though, as too much fertilizer can stop blooming.

With proper care, cyclamen can bloom for months.  While most will discard a cyclamen after it stops producing flowers, you may choose to grow it on until the plant goes into a rest, which is usually in spring. Move the plant to a cool and dry spot for the summer. Don’t water, or you’ll cause the tuber to rot.  Once summer ends around September or October, you can repot with African Violet soil, water it as discussed and watch it bloom again over the next Christmas season!   

CHRISTMAS/THANKSGIVING CACTUS

As epiphytes, Christmas cactus naturally grow on trees.  They are jungle cacti, meaning they don’t live in arid habitats like other cactus do. They’re originally found in tropical southeastern Brazil, where they grow in moist, high-altitude forests, soaking up the humidity, dappled sunlight, and balmy temperatures.  

WHICH IS WHICH?

True Christmas cactus, or Schlumbergera x buckleyi:  A hybrid holiday cactus that blooms relatively late. It can be recognized from its rounded leaf segments.

Thanksgiving cactus, or Schlumbergera truncata:  Often called Christmas cactus and confusingly labeled as such in stores, even though it’s not the same species. It blooms a bit earlier and has more pointy leaf segments.

Easter cactus, or Schlumbergera gaertneri:  As the name suggests, this variety blooms in spring, not winter. its flowers aren’t elongated and the leaf segments are more rounded.

Christmas cactus can be kept as a houseplant year-round, and with proper care, it’s a long-lasting succulent that can easily live for 20 to 30 years -  up to 100 years or more!  They are not toxic to your pets or children.

LIGHT:  Although some morning or late afternoon sun is perfectly fine and probably appreciated. It likes a bright, indirect light. If you do expose your Christmas cactus to too much direct sun, it may start showing stress coloration. The leaves turn a dark, brownish red from their normal green color.  Many succulents do this to protect themselves when they’re exposed to a direct sun. 

WATERING:  Keep your Christmas cactus’ soil lightly moist from late spring through to when the blooming period ends. After that, you can let the soil dry out a bit more, though don’t let it go bone dry.

FERTILIZING:  Fertilize once a month during the growing season (from early spring through late summer), and stop once you see the buds start to form in Fall. There’s no need to fertilize in winter since the plant isn’t actively growing. A diluted liquid houseplant fertilizer is ok, but the best is succulent and cacti plant food that’s formulated for potted plants.

REPOTTING & SOIL:  As epiphytes, when repotting a Christmas cactus, the best soil is  orchid potting mix. This species does best in a shallower planter and you probably won’t have to repot yours all too often.  It likes to be a little pot bound.  If you notice the soil has started to dry out too quickly, this may be a sign your Christmas cactus is very root-bound.  Come spring, choose one pot size up as long as the root ball is healthy.  You can also easily divide the plant at this time, as one planter is often made up of multiple loose stems potted together.  

FROSTY FERN

Frosty fern is easy to grow indoors when you understand its needs. Its origin is South and east Africa, the Azores and the Canary Islands.  It makes a great gift and is wonderful in centerpieces or alongside Christmas plants like poinsettia and Christmas cactus. Frosty fern can be grown as a houseplant and it does well in a large terrarium or dish garden.

LIGHT:  Frosty fern prefers bright but indirect light.  

WATERING:  Frosty Fern can quickly die in hot, dry conditions and requires consistently moist soil, which is why it does great in terrariums. It grows very well in a closed terrarium, as this naturally creates the consistently moist air and soil that it likes. It makes good ground cover in a terrarium.  Otherwise, providing high humidity that frosty fern requires, it is best to place its pot on a saucer filled with gravel or pebbles and water. Another way is in a dish garden (provided they have the same soil and watering needs as other tropicals in the dish). 

FERTILIZER:  This tropical does not require heavy feeding.  A weekly dose of fertilizer during the growing season can invigorate the foliage. You can use a liquid houseplant fertilizer for your indoor frosty fern. The recommended dosage is 1/4 teaspoon per 1 quart of water.  But, avoid using too much fertilizer as it can lead to root burn or put the plant under stress.  If it puts out growth, fertilize.  During the winter it may not need any.

CYPRESS

The Monterey Cypress trees you see at Christmas time make cute little Christmas trees or may be formed as a “Grinch” tree.  Another variety is the Lemon Cypress, which has the beautiful fragrance of lemon. 

First and foremost, the “Grinch” tree is simply shaped with twine to form the tree.  This can remain for a short time, but if you want to grow the tree on, which by the way, make beautiful houseplants and patio plants, you must remove the twine to allow the tree to grow naturally and stay healthy.  They are not winter hardy, therefore must be wintered over in your home.  A cool room is ideal.  They can grow to 3 or 4’ in a planter.

LIGHT:   This evergreen requires a good amount of indirect sunlight or morning sun in the home.  Outdoors, it should be placed in partial shade. 

Morning sun will help keep the Lemon cypress more yellow, but these cypresses may scorch or brown up in the hot afternoon sun if they become dry. 

WATERING:  Most cypress plants in general like to be kept moist and if allowed to dry out too long between waterings, they will brown up fast.  Water well when it needs a drink, and only allow the surface soil to get dry in between drinks.  As a patio plant during summer, attention to watering is very important. The same rule applies. Water when the surface soil is dry, but don’t wait too long before it gets a drink.  Lifting your plant is a great way to tell when it needs a drink.  These plants love high humidity, therefore misting it is a good idea, especially when your room is warm.  In a cooler room, it may not be necessary.

FERTILIZER:  These cypress trees won’t require much fertilizer when overwintering it in your home.  An organic food at ¼ strength every couple months should be adequate.  When placed outside, it would benefit from fertilizing in spring.  

REPOTTING:  Excellent drainage is important for Monterey cypress. Choose a pot with drain holes.  It should  be repotted once every three to four years. Repot it into a larger pot at least 1-2” wider than the old pot and backfill with regular potting soil.  No special soi mix is needed.  

PRUNING:  These trees won’t require much pruning, other than to remove any dieback or broken branches.  Root Pruning  when repotting is a great idea to keep it more contained and you can then place it back into the same container you had. Root Pruning should only be done in spring which is the ideal time to repot any tropical.   

POTTED CHRISTMAS TREE

Have you decided to buy a potted Christmas tree to bring indoors for Christmas, and then plant it in your yard?  It’s a great idea and below are some guidelines so you have success with your tree surviving the winter.

Ten days is the maximum time that a live tree should spend in your home.  If they stay inside any longer, they may break bud, and will not be able to withstand the harsh cold outside again. It is always best to place in a cooler room if possible. 

Don’t allow it to dry out, or place it near any furnace vents.  

Don't move the tree abruptly from a cold environment to a warm environment.  Once you bring it home, placing it in a cold entrance way, porch, or garage before you bring it into your home is advised.  If the root ball is frozen when purchased, wait until it has thawed and has drained, or if needed, give it a good watering BEFORE you bring it into the house.  It will make a huge mess if you do this after bringing it in.  Consider the container to place the root ball or pot into, before you choose too big of a tree. A smaller tree is always better. You don’t want a container that drains, as it will create a big mess. Water as needed, but don’t let it sit in water. The tree may be decorated with care. If lights are used, make sure that they give off as little heat as possible. Twinkle lights are a good choice. 

Once it’s ready to remove from your home to a cold protected place, and finally back outside, if the ground is not frozen the tree may be replanted immediately.  Digging the hole for the tree before the ground freezes is recommended. The spot to be dug could be filled with mulch, leaves or straw to help keep the hole open and help keep the soil from freezing. Keeping the soil needed for planting from freezing makes it easier to plant.  Store the soil in a heated garage or basement if possible.  If you are planting immediately, place the tree in the hole that was dug and back-fill around the root ball with the soil you saved.  Mulch (bark mulch) heavily over the top of the root ball to prevent it from freezing and thawing over winter.  Water well.  Stake the tree, if possible. 

 In the spring water lightly as a flooded tree may die from being constantly wet at this time. 

If you are not able to plant your tree immediately after Christmas, store the tree outside in a sheltered spot such as against the house or a wood fence until spring. Place in an area away from strong winter winds. Pack mulch and snow over and around the pot/root ball to help protect it from freezing and thawing over the winter.  In spring water when needed, but do not keep saturated, as it may get root rot.  With this in mind it is advised to move it out of heavy spring rains as well.